I vigneti si estendono, da nord a sud, lungo il Rodano da Vienne fino alla Provenza con un’interruzione di circa cinquanta chilometri attorno alla città di Montélimar. Questa interruzione definisce due aree vitivinicole che differiscono nettamente per topografia, paesaggio, clima, terreni e base ampelografica. La zona settentrionale, da Vienne a Valance, è una valle incuneata tra il Massiccio Centrale e le Alpi, con un clima temperato con influenze continentali, è caratterizzato da vigneti a giacitura collinare, sovente ubicati su ripidi pendii, con terreni ricchi di graniti e schisti.
La base ampelografica per i vini rossi è il vitigno Syrah e per i bianchi i vitigni Roussanne, Marsanne e Viognier. La zona meridionale, da Montélimar fino alla Provenza, è un’area ampia i cui terreni sono variegati (sabbiosi, ciottolosi, argillosi, …); diversa è la base ampelografica (Grenache, Mouvedre, Cinsualt, Carignan, Syrah, Clairette, Bouboulec, Roussanne, …) e il clima che è di tipo mediterraneo.
Come in tutte le regioni vitivinicole francesi, esiste una gerarchia che partendo da quella regionale (Côtes-de-Rhône), comprendente sei dipartimenti: Rhône, Loire, Ardèche, Gard, Drôme e Vaucluse arriva alle denominazioni comunali. Nella parte settentrionale, le denominazioni comunali (marginale la denominazione Côtes-de-Rhône) comprendono: Condrieu, Château-grillet, Saint-péray dedicata esclusivamente ai vini bianchi, Cornas solo ai vini rossi e Côtes-rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-hermitage, Hermitage a vini bianchi e rossi. I disciplinari, eccetto per la AOC Cornas, prevedono la possibilità di aggiungere al Syrah uve a bacca bianca (Roussanne e/o Marsanne in purezza o in combinazione o Viognier in purezza) in percentuale variabile fino ad un massimo del 20%. Questa possibilità è giustificata dai produttori nel voler rendere i vini meno spigolosi e acidi di quelli vinificati in purezza come citano anche i disciplinari: “Il Syrah dà vini molti colorati e ricchi in tannini mentre i quelli a bacca bianca apportano finezza e aromi”. In generale, i vini rossi sono longevi, eleganti, speziati (pepe nero), ricchi in profumi che ricordano il cassis e lampone e un’apprezzabile mineralità, in bocca evidenziano una spiccata nota acida e una buona tessitura tannica che li differenziano dai quelli prodotti con uve allevate in zone calde dove, sovente, sono meno eleganti e si presentano con aromi di confettura e talvolta con note animali, di cuoio, di caffè.
Le schede di alcuni vini degustati:
Saint-Joseph, Bio, 2014, Cave de Tain, 100% Syrah, al naso si presenta intenso, complesso con note sottili di piccoli frutti rossi (lampone) e sentori minerali e empireumatici (cacao, affumicato). In bocca risulta equilibrato, fresco, abbastanza lungo, con un finale minerale tipico di un Syrah nato su arenarie granitiche.
Saint-Joseph, Esprit de Granit, Selection parcellaire, 2014, Cave de Tain, 100% Syrah, vino prodotto con uve provenienti da vigneti con esposizione sud, sud-est. Note intense e concentrate di frutti rossi e neri, grafite e sentori leggeri di olive nere. Potente e ricco di aromi e dopo un attacco morbido, arrivano tannini ancora giovani che apportano una leggera ruvidezza controbilanciata da un finale fresco e speziato. Un vino giovane con ottime potenzialità.
Crozes-hermitage, Les Hauts du Fief, Selection parcellaire, 2014 Cave de Tain, 100% Syrah, selezione di uve vendemmiate nei migliori territori della zona. Sentori intensi di frutti neri maturi, cioccolato, spezie e di torrefazione, importante, opulento e armonico con una tessitura tannica importante e un finale lungo, le sensazioni retrolfattive ricordano i profumi ortonasali.
Crozes-hermitage, Sud, 2013, Cave de Tain, 100% Syrah, una selezione di uve provenienti da parcelle ubicate nella parte sud della denominazione Crozes-hermitage dove sono presenti terreni sassosi e alluvionali. Profumi intensi che rammentano i frutti rossi maturi, fiori (violetta), in bocca è morbido con tannini evoluti e aromi leggermente speziati sul finale.
Hermitage, Grand Classiche, 2009. Cave de Tain, 100% Syrah, vino dal colore porpora intenso, cupo, brillante. Frutti neri maturi (mirtillo, mora) e boisé sono i profumi che appaiono alla prima olfatazione che poi si evolvono in note speziate (pepe nero) e di tostato. Complesso, pieno, potente, con tannini già evoluti, morbidi. Un vino ancora giovane con ottime potenzialità di evoluzione positiva nel tempo.
Côtes-rôtie, Coeur de Rose, 2015, Domaine de Rosiers, 98 % di Syrah e 2% di Viognier, sviluppa profumi di frutti neri (cassis, mirtilli maturi), speziati, note floreali e boisé. In bocca è elegante, con tannini evidenti ma non invadenti, lungo, con sentori finali di liquirizia.
Côtes-rôtie, Besset, 2015, Domaine de Rosiers, 100% Syrah, vino dal bouquet elegante di frutti neri (mirtilli e ciliegie), di tabacco e di pepe nero, al palato è armonico, rotondo con tannini ancora ben presenti ma attenuati da una bella acidità che dona lunghezza ed equilibrio. Giovanissimo con ottime prospettive per il futuro.
Ezio Alini
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