Pouilly – Fumé Aoc: un’espressione del Sauvignon Blanc

Vino bianco tranquillo la cui base ampelografica è unicamente il Sauvignon Blanc, detto localmente anche Blanc Fumé.

Il termine “fumé ” ha due significati: uno legato alle caratteristiche della colorazione che assumono gli acini quando, a maturazione, si ricoprono di pruina grigia, l’altro è riferito al bouquet del vino (pietra focaia) dovuto alla particolarità dei suoli. I vigneti, ubicati nel dipartimento del Nièvre, s’integrano armoniosamente con il paesaggio della Loira e si estendono per una ventina di chilometri su un promontorio calcareo a est del fiume.  I suoli appartengono al Giurassico (160 milioni di anni) e comprendono quattro tipi di terreni: argillo-silicei, marne kimmeridgiane, calcari duri (calcari di Villiers e calcari di Barrios) e argille con silex.  Anche se il disciplinare (l’A.O.C. fu attribuita nel 1937) riporta note generiche sulle caratteristiche organolettiche, i vini, invece, sono molto tipicizzati dal suolo, per cui numerosi produttori tendono a valorizzare tale diversità vinificandoli separatamente in base al terreno.

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I vini vinificati con uve coltivate su terreni calcarei (Calcari di Villiers e di Barrios) presentano profumi fruttati (pesca bianca, pera) con note vegetali (bosso, ginestra) e talvolta sentori minerali I e sono subito pronti, soprattutto se le uve provengono da viti giovani. Eccellente potenziale di longevità si riscontrano nei Pouilly-Fumé prodotti da uve coltivate su terreni con predominanza di marne conchilifere (Nanogyra virgula). I profumi sono fini, complessi con note floreali (rosa, narciso), fruttate (frutti gialli maturi), vegetali e fumé e si sviluppano progressivamente fino a raggiungere la loro pienezza dopo una decina di mesi. I suoli con silex danno Pouilly-Fumé nervosi con un potenziale d’invecchiamento sempre buono e raggiungono la loro piena maturità dopo due anni. I profumi evidenziano sentori speziati (curry), iodati, minerali (pietra focaia) e note floreali (lilla, rosa)

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Grande diversità hanno i Pouilly-Fumé ottenuti da uve coltivate su terreni argillo-silicei: se il tenore in sabbia è maggiore, i vini sono di pronta beva, morbidi, con scarso potenziale all’invecchiamento, se il tenore di argille è più importante, i profumi si esprimono più lentamente anche dopo mesi. Ulteriori caratteristiche che si possono rilevare dall’esame olfattivo dei Pouilly-Fumé sono note agrumate (limone, pompelmo), fruttate (ribes rosso, pesca di vigna, pera, frutto della passione, litchi, albicocca, mango), di fiori bianchi (acacia, giglio) ma anche di iris, di nocciola, di mela cotogna. Tuttavia non si trovano i profumi aggressivi quali importanti note vegetali (fiore di ginestra appassita o pipi di gatto, sentori che i produttori di Pouilly considerano “difetti”). I vini in bocca si presentano con buona acidità, mai aggressiva, sapidità (più accentuata nei vini prodotti con uve provenienti da terreni con silex), grassezza e un finale persistente. Il retrogusto è talvolta leggermente amaricante e i sentori retronasali confermano la percezione dei profumi (floreali, fruttati, minerali, ecc.) percepiti per via ortonasale.

Note di degustazione:

20160919_180822Pouilly-Fumé AOC Silex 2013, Domaine Champeau, Pouilly-sur-Loire (Saint-Andelain). Alla vista ha un colore giallo paglierino scarico, brillante.  All’olfatto è inteso e di grande finezza con profumi floreali (lillà, rosa), bosso e ribes rosso accompagnate da note iodate e minerali (pierre à fusil). In bocca è ricco e succoso con una grande complessità aromatica, fresco e persistente. Ancora giovane, rispecchia le caratteristiche del suolo (silex).

Pouilly-Fumé AOC Domaine des Fines Caillottes 2014, Jean Pabiot et Fils, Pouilly-sur-Loire (Les Loges). Giallo paglierino carico alla vista, elegante al naso con profumi di fiori bianchi e frutti esotici (ananas, frutti della passione). In bocca ricco, pieno carnoso, leggermente sapido con una buona freschezza e un ritorno aromatico di frutti esotici.

Ezio Alini

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