A metà degli anni ’90, in una serata ONAV fu presentato in degustazione il Cagnulari, un vino che soprese i presenti per la rusticità, l’aggressiva acidità e gli spiccati sentori di pelliccia. In quegli anni, i vini vinificati con uve di varietà minori erano “prodotti di un Dio minore” bistrattati da un punto di vista enologico, gli investimenti erano indirizzati verso produzioni di vini con varietà nazionali e internazionali più conosciute, di conseguenza, questi vini non venivano valorizzati per loro effettive potenzialialità.
Il vitigno Cagnulari è coltivato prevalentemente nella provincia di Sassari, in particolare nei comuni di Ossi, Tissi, Intiri, Ursini e Sorso e rischiava di scomparire se il viticoltore Giovanni Cherchi non avesse iniziato a vinificarlo in purezza negli anni ‘90. Il Cagnulari, detto anche Cagniulari, è un vitigno a bacca rossa, mai citato nei libri di ampelografia sarda dei secoli scorsi, forse perché la sua coltivazione era ristretta al solo territorio sassarese. L’origine del vitigno, fino a pochi anni fa, era incerta, alcuni studi sostenevano fosse di origine francese, introdotto in Sardegna nell’ottocento, altri fosse originario della Spagna, introdotto nell’isola durante il dominio aragonese/spagnolo (1323-1720).Recenti studi, supportati da descrizioni ampelografiche (Galet 2000) e da analisi genetiche del DNA (Nieddu et al. 2007), hanno stabilito che il Cagnulari è identico al Graciano, vitigno spagnolo coltivato principalmente nel Rioja e al Bovale Sardo. Quest’ultimo non è da confondere con il Bovale Grande (Bovale di Spagna), varietà geneticamente distinta, e identico al Carignano e al Mazuelo (J. Robinson et al 2012). Dal 1995 la tipologia in purezza rientra nella DOC Alghero ma i produttori preferiscono commercializzare il vino con la denominazione IGT Isola dei Nuraghi.
Memore dei ricordi storici, quest’anno a Vinitaly, ho degustato in anteprima un Cagnulari delle Tenute Delogu di Sassari. Il vino, prodotto con sole uve Cagnulari, posto in commercio per la prima volta, si aggiunge alle altre tipologie presenti nel catalogo aziendale. L’enologo dell’Azienda, Antonio Puddu, nel corso della degustazione spiega che, dopo la vinificazione in acciaio con macerazione sulle bucce per due settimane, il vino viene affinato in barriques di rovere francese, di secondo passaggio, per sei mesi e poi travasato in vasche di acciaio dove sosta per ulteriori sei mesi. Successivamente viene imbottigliato dove subisce l’ulteriore affinamento di tre mesi prima della sua commercializzazione.
Il Cagnulari, spiega sig. Puddu, è una varietà di uva che “dà vini con un’acidità molto elevata che tendono andare in riduzione molto facilmente, da questo deriva la scelta del legno che favorisce una microssigenazione maggiore rispetto all’acciaio”. Il Cagnulari Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2015, alla degustazione si presenta con un bel colore rosso rubino intenso, brillante, all’olfatto, dopo una iniziale leggera nota di boisé, i profumi si evolvono in eleganti sentori di macchia mediterranea e aromi speziati (anice), con un finale di ciliegia matura e tabacco, etereo. In bocca evidenzia una acidità spiccata ma non aggressiva, seguita da una salinità elegante e una leggera tannicità, buona persistenza in bocca, le sensazioni retrolfattive ricordano le note ortonasali. Per concludere un vino ovviamente ancora molto giovane, con ottime potenzialità di evolversi nel tempo, sarà interessante degustarlo fra qualche anno.
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