Si è spento ieri pomeriggio, all’ospedale S. Lazzaro di Alba, dopo una lunga malattia, il vignaiolo Elvio Cogno, è stato uno dei patriarchi del Barolo e della Nascetta.
In principio fu il Ristorante dell’Angelo, a La Morra. Fu in quel luogo che Elvio Cogno, classe 1936 e originario di Novello, maturò l’idea di produrre i propri vini. Tanto che, a metà degli anni ’50, grazie all’interessamento di un socio e al crescente prestigio delle sue bottiglie, Elvio Cogno decise di lasciare la ristorazione a favore della vitivinicoltura, cominciando a collaborare con l’azienda Marcarini, che gestiva splendidi vigneti in Brunate – nel comune di La Morra – coltivati a nebbiolo da Barolo. Il lavoro di Elvio si indirizzò subito verso una produzione di alto livello, orientata alla valorizzazione del grande potenziale dei vini delle Langhe.
Il primo Barolo imbottigliato fu quello della grande annata 1961. E già nel 1964, in largo anticipo sui tempi, Elvio Cogno decise, tra i primi, di portare in etichetta il nome delle vigne: La prima fu naturalmente proprio Brunate, segno di orgoglio e consapevolezza circa l’unicità del proprio prodotto e del terroir da cui aveva origine. L’azienda Cogno-Marcarini divenne in poco tempo una delle principali realtà della zona. Verso la fine degli anni ‘80, tuttavia, Elvio Cogno maturò l’idea di cambiare strada. Sentiva che era arrivato il momento di cominciare un’avventura in solitaria. E fu così che nel 1990, con enormi sacrifici e coraggio, acquistò la Cascina Nuova in località Ravera, un grande casolare proprio sotto il paese di Novello. Elvio Cogno aveva 60 anni quando scelse di ricominciare da zero. Accanto a lui, la figlia Nadia e il genero Valter Fissore che, di lì a poco, entrarono ufficialmente in azienda. La loro prima vendemmia di nebbiolo fu quella del 1991, commercializzata quattro anni più tardi con il nome di Barolo Ravera, il primo a portare in etichetta una menzione geografica che sarà regolamentata solo molti anni più tardi.
Nel 1996, Elvio Cogno lasciò le redini dell’azienda alla figlia Nadia e al genero Valter Fissore, rimanendo sempre però prodigo di consigli e partecipe dei successi dell’azienda. Fino alla malattia, che ne aveva provocato il definitivo ritiro già da qualche anno. E, ieri, la morte, all’età di 79 anni, con il mondo del Barolo che saluta un altro dei suoi patriarchi. I funerali si terranno martedì 14 giugno alle ore 10:30 presso la chiesa S. Martino a La Morra. Nella stessa parrocchia, stasera alle ore 21 il Rosario.
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