Autoctoni i vini bianchi preferiti dalla ristorazione

È il vitigno autoctono il primo criterio di scelta per l’alta ristorazione: vale il doppio (67%) rispetto a denominazioni (32%), grandi brand (38%) e biologico (29%). E le sue etichette rappresentano la metà delle proposte in carta. È quanto emerge da un’indagine sulla presenza dei vini bianchi autoctoni nella ristorazione italiana segnalata dalle principali guide, realizzata da Nomisma-Wine monitor per l’Istituto marchigiano di tutela vini (Imt) e presentata oggi a Vinitaly.

LA TERRITORIALITA’

L’indagine rileva tutta la varietà del vigneto Italia in un solo dato. I 10 vitigni principali del Paese valgono il 40% dell’intera produzione italiana, pochissimo rispetto al resto del mondo. In Francia la top 10 rappresenta il 72%, in Spagna il 75,5%, negli Usa l’81,5%, in Australia l’88,2% e in Nuova Zelanda il 98%. Una varietà che si sta rivelando sempre più un valore aggiunto per i ristoratori (220 gli intervistati tra sommelier, titolari e cuochi): su 126 etichette di vini bianchi in carta, sono 64 le etichette di autoctoni, un dato che sale a 106 (50% del totale) nei ristoranti di fascia alta, a riprova del fatto che l’interesse cresce in maniera direttamente proporzionale alla qualità del ristorante. Qui, tra le regioni più rappresentate in carta, vince nettamente il Friuli Venezia Giulia (40%), seguita da Alto Adige (15%), Sicilia (9%) e Marche (7%). Poi Abruzzo, Trentino, Veneto, Campania, Piemonte e Valle D’Aosta. “Una classifica – ha detto il responsabile di Nomisma Wine Monitor, Denis Pantini – che non riflette la forza sui mercati ma che premia i vini che vincono sul piano dell’identità e della qualità. Marche, Campania, Trentino e Alto Adige per esempio, sono tutte regioni con un peso inferiore al 3% del totale della produzione enologica nazionale di vino bianco ma sono grandi potenze sul mercato dell’eccellenza”.

I VINI 

Alberto Mazzoni

Underachiever (che potrebbero fare di più), emergenti, immancabili e onnipresenti. Sono le 4 categorie riassunte in una matrice che incrocia il tasso di penetrazione nelle wine list con il potenziale produttivo in termini di superficie. Tra gli underachiever troviamo 4 tra i più diffusi vitigni autoctoni: il Glera (Prosecco), il Garganega (Soave), il Catarratto e il Trebbiano. Tra gli emergenti, alcune nicchie: Pignoletto, Passerina e Pecorino, mentre sono ‘immancabili’ nei ristoranti Falanghina, Fiano, Vermentino, Friulano, Traminer e un altro marchigiano, il Verdicchio. Onnipresente è infine il Moscato, nella maggioranza dei casi inteso nella sua interpretazione di vino dolce. In carta l’autoctono più presente (con esclusione della regione di appartenenza del ristorante) è il Traminer (Trentino e Alto Adige), presente nell’84% dei casi, prima di Moscato (78%), Tocai Friulano (74%), Vermentino (73%), Fiano (69%) e Verdicchio disponibile in 65 locali su 100. Seguono Falanghina, Trebbiano, Catarratto, Garganega, Pecorino (46%), Glera, Passerina (35%) e Pignoletto. Per il direttore Imt, Alberto Mazzoni: “Il Verdicchio è ben presente nei ristoranti italiani di qualità e ancor più lo è in quelli di fascia alta (83%). Ma non basta, il posizionamento nella ristorazione non è lo stesso di quello riscontrato nelle guide o tra i consumatori dove vantiamo 2 primati. È importante riuscire a crescere in questo segmento dell’on-trade, perché rappresenta un canale fondamentale per un’affermazione più remunerativa del prodotto sul mercato”.

VERDICCHIO E MARCHIGIANI

Verdicchio, Pecorino e Passerina compaiono in 7 ristoranti su 10, con il Verdicchio che detiene una rappresentanza del 65%, seguito dal Pecorino (46%) e dalla Passerina (35%). Le percentuali crescono se si prende in considerazione la fascia alta dei ristoranti segnalati dalle guide: qui il Verdicchio sale all’83% e l’85% delle carte vini detengono almeno un prodotto marchigiano, con una media di circa 6 etichette. La crescita dei bianchi della regione è sostanziata dai numeri: nella fascia alta i ristoratori dichiarano di averne aumentato le vendite, contro il 13% che registra una diminuzione. Ancora meglio il trend del Verdicchio che ha incrementato le vendite per il 31% del campione e diminuito per l’11%. Per il futuro, gli acquisti tra gli ‘user’ cresceranno nel 17% dei casi (del 20% nella fascia alta) mentre diminuiranno per il 4%. Tra le caratteristiche più apprezzate, quelle organolettiche al 51%, il prezzo (49%) e la versatilità nell’abbinamento, al 49% (60% nella fascia alta).

Ufficio stampa Istituto marchigiano di tutela vini – IMT: Ispropress

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