Badia di Morrona a Terricciola, in provincia di Pisa, oggi una delle più interessanti realtà enologiche toscane, ha una storia antica e importante, come racconta Filippo Gaslini Alberti, rappresentante di terza generazione della famiglia che ne gestisce le attività agricole.
Fondata dai Benedettini nell’alto Medioevo per poi passare ai monaci Camaldolesi, le prime notizie riguardanti l’abbazia risalgono al 1089 ed è riconducibile al 1152 la chiesa romanica con chiostro annesso, inserita nel complesso. Divenuta nel quindicesimo secolo residenza estiva del Vescovo di Volterra, in realtà è sempre stata terra vocata alla coltivazione della vite.
Fu solo nel 1939 che la proprietà venne acquistata dalla famiglia Gaslini Alberti, il cui capostipite Gerolamo era stato il fondatore del famoso omonimo ospedale genovese per bambini, divenuto famoso nel mondo. Italo e Mario, ci racconta il loro discendente, hanno iniziato un lavoro tenace e profondo di cambiamento e rinnovamento che è stato continuato negli anni successivi dai discendenti che hanno mantenuto come simbolo aziendale lo stemma di famiglia e hanno proseguito l’opera di rinnovamento, iniziata nel 1939, dai vigneti alla cantina, al fine di produrre vini di qualità. Oggi l’azienda ha 600 ha, dei quali 105 allevati a vigneto. I vigneti sono stati completamente rinnovati, migliorate costantemente le tecniche di vinificazione e di affinamento, la cantina è stata ampliata rispetto al fabbricato storico del Settecento e ora comprende 5500 mq. estesi su sei livelli. La zona ricade nella DOCG Chianti e l’Azienda ha, in effetti, privilegiato la produzione di vini rossi, anche se viene vinificato anche dell’ottimo Vermentino.
Due vini tipici di fascia alta vengono prodotti nell’Azienda: N’Antia, un Supertuscan di taglio bordolese, e VignaAlta, un Sangiovese in purezza. Proprio il Sangiovese in purezza viene presentato in degustazione verticale durante la serata organizzata a Milano, presso l’Osteria del treno, il 30 gennaio 2017 per le annate 1997 1998 1999 2000 e 2011. La serata dal titolo “ Sangiovese nel vecchio e nel nuovo millennio” mette a confronto anche due stili di affinamento diverso: prima la maturazione del vino avveniva esclusivamente in barriques, ora in botti grandi di rovere francese e in barrique di secondo passaggio solo per una piccola parte del vino. Filippo Gaslini Alberti, presente alla serata con la moglie, spiega come sia per loro prioritario, oltre produrre vini di qualità, valorizzare la tradizione del luogo, concentrare tutta l’attenzione sulla specificità del territorio da salvaguardare e da trasmettere nei prodotti. Oltre la metà dei 110 ettari impiantati a vitigno, vedono crescere tra i filari il Sangiovese, vitigno principe della Toscana. VignaAlta, in effetti, è Sangiovese in purezza e rappresenta il territorio. Il terroir da cui nasce l’uva è un vero e proprio crù, una vigna che fin dal lontano 1965 forniva produzioni di uva di particolare concentrazione fenolica e zuccherina e che, quindi, si decise di vinificare separatamente e solo in purezza. Il suo clone è stato studiato all’Università di Pisa e poi reimpiantato nei terreni migliori dell’azienda.
Degustazione:
VignaAlta 1997: uve raccolte dopo una estate con vendemmia anticipata, di alta concentrazione zuccherina. L’affinamento è avvenuto per 15 mesi in barrique. Al naso frutti rossi, un sentore di fiori essiccati, talco e spezie. Un lieve sentore polveroso. In bocca il vino mantiene una bella acidità, corpo e persistenza. Ha vent’anni e non li dimostra, si avverte ancora il suo fascino fa sia all’olfatto che in bocca.
VignaAlta 1998: uve raccolte verso fine settembre, maturato solo in barrique per 15 mesi. Bella espressività al naso, fruttato e speziato; in bocca buona l’acidità e bella la compattezza, morbido ma vivo e fresco il tannino.
VignaAlta 1999: al naso fruttato con connotazioni di spezie, chiodi di garofano e frutti rossi; in bocca armonico, compatto e persistente; equilibrio e bella armonia.
VignaAlta 2000: vino da annata eccellente con agosto caldissimo e vendemmia anticipata. Frutta e fiori rossi al naso, ciliegie e amarene, spezie, liquirizia, chiodi di garofano, ma anche mineralità e macchia mediterranea. Maggiore la morbidezza rispetto ai precedenti.
VignaAlta 2011: ottima primavera, uva sana ad alta concentrazione zuccherina e rese basse. Al naso bouquet intenso ed elegante con profumi di spezie dolci e frutta rossa, di alloro e di ciliegia, note di vaniglia. Sangiovese di bella eleganza, fruttato e profondo al naso, morbido, calibrato e complesso in bocca. Bel tannino. L’affinamento è avvenuto in botti da 25 hl di rovere francese e per una piccola parte del vino, in barrique di secondo passaggio.
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