Al naso, sentori fruttati con gradevoli percezioni di mora e di ciliegia matura, in bocca morbidezza, bella acidità e tannini equilibrati: la nuova Bonarda si presenta così, sia in versione frizzante e più leggera, che in quella ferma e più strutturata.
Per tutte, come segno di distinzione, l’utilizzazione della “ Marasca” la nuova bottiglia creata ad hoc, di vetro spesso, ideata appositamente per resistere alla pressione del vino e recante il marchio del Distretto OltrepòPaveseWine.
Il Progetto Bonarda dei Produttori, nato nel 2015 e che ha ottenuto finora l’adesione di 19 aziende agricole, ha presentato la nuova Bonarda presso l’azienda Montelio di Codevilla, il 3 marzo 2017 e il Presidente Fabiano Giorgi ne ha illustrato le motivazioni e i progetti.
Innanzi tutto è stata fondamentale la scelta della vinificazione di Croatina in purezza, vitigno autoctono, tipico e rappresentativo dell’Oltrepò, che oggi si estende su 4.000 ettari vitati, prevalentemente collinari. Le rese sono basse, la vinificazione è controllata e viene richiesta alle aziende la conformità ad un regolamento di produzione più severo del disciplinare stabilito per la Doc; i produttori aderenti hanno, inoltre, l’obbligo di gestire direttamente tutta la filiera, dalla vigna alla bottiglia.
Il distretto, che raggruppa aziende agricole di piccole e medie dimensioni, si è posto come obiettivo quello di ottenere un miglioramento della qualità media dei vini d’Oltrepò Pavese, sia attraverso l’ammodernamento delle aziende, sia attraverso la circolazione di informazioni tecniche tra i soci e la loro collaborazione.
Cristian Calatroni, uno dei produttori e degli ideatori del progetto, afferma: – “ Abbiamo capito che, per andare avanti, bisognava fare squadra, per esportare il nostro prodotto ci vuole un territorio compatto. L’esperimento è importante per noi, perché ci confrontiamo più volte l’anno, discutiamo dei nostri sbagli, superiamo insieme i difetti, stabiliamo il periodo della vendemmia, siamo cresciuti, insomma, e garantire l’omogeneità del prodotto è importante per la visione d’insieme”.
La Bonarda dei produttori è rigorosamente vinificata e imbottigliata in Oltrepò Pavese,“ provincia a forma di grappolo”, come scriveva Gianni Brera e zona vinicola attraversata dal 45° parallelo nord, il parallelo del vino, dove la coltivazione della vite è attestata da sempre.
Presenti alla serata le aziende: Bisi, Fiamberti, Travaglina, Gazzotti, Calvi, Valdamonte, Manuelina, Fornace, Calatroni, Gravanago, Giorgi, Ca’ di Frara, Montelio, Quaquarini.
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