In occasione del giovedì grasso a Bardonecchia, è stata organizzata una cena dove il cioccolato è stato l’elemento centrale di tutti i piatti presentati. L’idea è nata dalla collaborazione tra lo chef Paolo Romano del Ristorante Biovey e Franco Ugetti dell’omonima pasticceria-cioccolateria, che da anni collaborano nella ricerca e sperimentazione di interessanti connubi tra salato e dolce utilizzando, in primis, materie prime del territorio ed eventuale fusion di prodotti con particolari caratteristiche come cioccolato e spezie.
Ecco le portate accompagnate da pani loro produzione, i tra i quali spiccavano il pane al cioccolato bianco, i grissini al sesamo e le sfoglie al cioccolato ed esaltati dall’abbinamento con interessanti vini:
– Rocher del Moncenisio, una ganascia di cioccolato fondente Grand Cru del Venezuela “Araguani” (72% cacao), panna e latte nella quale sono stati immersi cubetti di Blu del Moncenisio, formaggio locale erborinato, cristallizzato e successivamente ricoperto con pezzettini di pane tostato e cioccolato. Tutto accompagnato da un Marsala Superiore Oro 5 anni dell’Az. Marco De Bartoli. Il vino ambrato, con una ottima persistenza olfattiva (caramello, boisé), avvolgente e leggermente abboccato, esaltava la piccantezza dell’erborinatura e nel contempo compensava gli equilibrati toni di frutta secca del cioccolato.
– Filetto di baccalà con besciamella al cioccolato e polenta al cacao, la sapidità del baccalà si compensava con la dolcezza della besciamella (latte e cioccolato “Araguani”) e la polenta cioccolatosa completava il piatto. Il vino in abbinamento era “Abbazia di Novacella Paepositus Weiss 2008 IGT”, un vino dai profumi eleganti ed esuberanti, in bocca grasso ma ancora molto fresco con giusta acidità che completava le sensazioni offerte dal piatto.
– Vellutata di zucca e porri al cioccolato bianco con capasanta salata al burro di cacao, un connubio tra la dolcezza della zucca, la delicata “cipollosità” del porro e la sapida-dolcezza della capasanta, il tutto accompagnato da una gustosa grattatina di … burro di cacao biologico, non deodorizzato, dagli aromi complessi che ricordano la frutta secca (arachide, nocciola) e il burro di malga. Il tutto accompagnato dal Paepositus Weiss che, in questo caso, con la sua equilibrata acidità compensava la complessità del piatto.
– Filetto di cervo in crosta di funghi e grue di cacao (fave di cacao frantumate tostate e sbucciate) con salsa al cioccolato e rosa canina e terrina di patate accompagnato con un Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2010 della Az. Vitivinicola Zenato, vino lungo, morbido, con profumi intensi di piccoli frutti rossi. Dopo il pre-dessert, Mousse al cioccolato biondo e pera, è seguito il tris di dolci: Bignè al cioccolato e nocciole, Bonet con streusel alla mandorla e Macaron al cioccolato con farcia di piselli e menta. Chiudevano la cena le friandises su cui spiccavano due sfere di cioccolato una con ripieno al mandarino e l’altro all’isoppo. Il tutto accompagnato da un Nero d’Avola Josèphine Rouge 2004 dell’Az. Marco De Bartoli, vino rosso liquoroso abboccato perfetto per i dolci presentati.
I riferimenti:
– Ristorante Boivey Via G. Cantore 2, Bardonecchia
– Pasticceria Ugetti, Via Medail 43, Bardonecchia.
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