I cjarsòns sono il piatto simbolo della Carnia e come la Carnia, verdissima e incontaminata montagna del Friuli, hanno una sorprendente molteplicità di aspetti, tant’è che se ne contano una cinquantina di versioni.
Sorta di grandi ravioli in cui salato e dolce si miscelano armoniosamente, il loro ripieno varia non solo da paese a paese, ma anche da famiglia a famiglia. La ricotta che ne costituisce la base, infatti, viene impastata con una ricchissima varietà di ingredienti: spezie, frutta secca, uva sultanina, aromi orientali, erbe aromatiche, mele, mentuccia, erbe primaverili… Tocco finale, il condimento, uguale per ogni versione: una semplice spolverata di scuete fumade (ricotta affumicata) e ont (burro fuso).
La loro origine è legata ai cramârs, i venditori ambulanti di spezie che, dal ‘700, attraversavano a piedi le Alpi per vendere nei paesi germanici la loro preziosa ed esotica mercanzia acquistata a Venezia e riposta nella crassigne, una sorta di piccola cassettiera di legno che portavano a mo’ di zaino sulle spalle. Quando tornavano a casa, era festa grande e le donne preparavano i cjarsòns, unendo alla ricotta quanto rimaneva sul fondo dei cassetti della crassigne. Ovviamente, gli ingredienti variavano di volta in volta, di anno in anno, di casa in casa.
A questo gustoso piatto è dedicato una grande festa, I Cjarsòns, la tradizione della Carnia, che animerà domenica 4 giugno l’incantevole borgo di Sutrio. 10 i punti di degustazione allestiti negli angoli più caratteristici del paese, dove si potranno gustare i sapori inconsueti di questo cibo d’origine sicuramente povera, ma complesso e ricco d’ingredienti quanto un piatto di alta ristorazione. 10 i paesi di tutte le vallate della Carnia coinvolti, che proporranno ognuno la propria ricetta. Si potranno così mangiare cjarsòns salati o dolci, insaporiti da erbe primaverili o da piccole scaglie di cioccolato, con melissa e cipolla oppure con pere secche e carrube, accompagnati ai più pregiati vini di grandi aziende friulane, selezionati per l’occasione.
Per chi vorrà poi imparare a preparare i cjarsòns, sabato 3 saranno organizzati un’escursione guidata per raccogliere e conoscere e le erbe che ne comporranno il ripieno e un corso di cucina con una signora di Sutrio che insegnerà come fare al meglio i “Cjarsòns di Sudri”. Per vivere a pieno la festa, si può alloggiare a Sutrio a Borgo Soandri, l’albergo diffuso con le stanze (o meglio mini appartamenti con cucina arredati di tutto punto) ricavate dalla ristrutturazione di antiche case del paese. Il pacchetto weekend di due notti in B&B, compresi il corso di cucina del sabato e il voucher per la degustazione domenicale dei cjarsòns e dei vini, viene 125 euro a persona. Info: www.albergodiffuso.org
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