La chiusura ideale: un’utopia!

Quali sono le considerazioni che un onavista può fare riguardo alla chiusura del vino? Meglio in quante occasioni ripetiamo la solita frase: “ Sa di tappo!”. Prima parte di un’attenta disamina dell’enologo Lorenzo Tablino, che ci porta nel mondo magico, ma a volte difficile, dei tappi.

diam-tradition-2“Quante volte, a malincuore, posiamo il bicchiere e osserviamo la bottiglia? Riflettiamo: anni di lavoro e di aspettative, sprecati dalla cessione di profumi e sapori anomali, che hanno distrutto il valore organolettico del vino. Aggiungo che alte problematiche sono emerse tra gli addetti in questi ultimi anni riguardo alle diverse e poliedriche chiusure. Penso sia utile per un onavista attento conoscere quali chiusure offre il mercato, le loro caratteristiche, i pregi e i possibili difetti. L’importanza di una chiusura per un vino di qualità è sintetizzata da due famose frasi:

1- Vini uguali tappati con 14 chiusure diverse danno 14 risultati diversi” (P.Godden ).

2 – Per un vino è più importante la chiusura che non la vigna (R.Gipson).

Vediamo ora quali sono le principali chiusure utilizzate dagli imbottigliatori.

Tappo in sughero naturale

Sugero della Sardegna

E’ in crescita il suo utilizzo, grazie a diversi fattori che oggi hanno forte rilevanza, anche in un contesto di vitivinicoltura sostenibile. In particolare la salvaguardia delle sugherete del bacino del Mediterraneo è un obiettivo generale, che investe non solo i produttori di sughero, ma anche istituzioni e governi. Grazie ad esse diminuisce l’inquinamento del pianeta, limitando nello stesso tempo, grazie all’anidride carbonica consumata, il cosiddetto “effetto serra “, soprattutto per le future generazioni. “Scegli un tappo in sughero per un ambiente migliore per i tuoi figli” si potrebbe dire. Migliorata sensibilmente la qualità di tutta la filiera del sughero. Iniziando dalla foresta con il corretto intervallo per la decortica, il trattamento del sottobosco, la regolamentazione del pascolo dei mammiferi. Aggiungiamo il miglioramento dei processi in sugherificio. Importante è il lavaggio del sughero grezzo con acqua sempre pulita, onde evitare inquinamenti di ogni genere. Dai fogli di corteccia si ottengono i tappi cilindrici che useranno le cantine tramite di versi processi di lavorazione: taglio, trafilatura, lavaggio finale, cernita, timbratura, lubrificazione, imballaggio. Migliorati sensibilmente i controlli finali in laboratorio e i dati sulla tracciabilità. Le tendenze da parte degli utilizzatori sono: altezza non eccessiva e diametro ben correlato alla bocca della bottiglia che tende a uniformarsi a livello internazionale. Maggiore importanza viene data ai trattamenti di superficie (sanitizzanti, lubrificanti, uniformanti) onde avere al massimo una valenza di ‘naturalità’.”

Enologo Lorenzo Tablino

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