Terra Madre Salone del Gusto ha aperto i suoi battenti giovedì 22 settembre, un mercato nazionale e internazionale diffuso per le strade e piazze di Torino.
Tra i presidi italiani di particolare interesse per un enofilo è quello del Vin Santo Affumicato dell’Alta Valle del Tevere, presidio riconosciuto nel 2014, dove si può degustare un vino dai sentori intriganti. Un presidio nato per il recupero di una tradizione territoriale e per la valorizzazione di un vino che viene prodotto in un’areale ben definito, l’Alta Valle del Tevere, situato nella parte settentrionale dell’Umbria, tra la Toscana e le Marche. La vite, maritata ad olmi, era un coltura marginale allevata solo con la funzione di confine tra i terreni, i campi erano dedicati alla coltivazione tabacco, grano o foraggio.
La tradizione racconta che l’origine di questo vino nasce come imitazione del vin santo “classico” che era appannaggio dei proprietari. I mezzadri, non potendo utilizzare i fruttai dove appassivano le uve per il vin santo classico, facevano appassire le uve, legando i grappoli a coppie, nelle cucine vicino ai camini o stufe dove gli acini assorbivano i fumi dei locali. Gli acini venivano torchiati e il mosto fatto fermentare in caratelli usati, seguiva poi il travaso del vino in damigiane. Il vino scandiva i momenti più importanti della famiglia o offerto all’ospite di riguardo.
Questo sistema di vinificazione, con il passare del tempo e col passaggio generazionale, si stava perdendo, come succede nelle migliori tradizioni, però per un caso quasi fortuito, un contadino riprese a produrlo seguendo quanto riportato da ricerche storiche sulle produzioni enologiche locali descritte in un opuscolo della Comunità Montana. Con la disponibilità degli Enti locali e l’intervento di Slow Food inizia il riconoscimento del presidio. Oggi una decina di produttori hanno aderito al progetto e presso sette “vinsantaie” è possibile degustare questo vino anche se il vino, al momento, non è in vendita in quanto la produzione è molto piccola e destinata all’uso famigliare.
Il vino non ha un disciplinare definito ma alcuni punti sono imprescindibili: la selezione delle uve preferibilmente da grappoli spargoli, l’utilizzo del fruttaio per l’appassimento per tre-quattro mesi delle uve che subiscono l’affumicatura a mezzo di stufe alimentate con legni come il rovere, l’affinamento, minimo tre anni, in caratelli con lievito madre che ogni famiglia custodisce. Le varietà utilizzate sono quelle locali come trebbiano, malvasia, grechetto, canaiolo. Ovviamente, dare una carta d’identità organolettica univoca è impossibile in quanto ogni vinificatore ha un suo stile.
Il vino oggi in degustazione è dell’Az. Agr. La miniera di Galparino, si presenta con un colore ambrato, dal profumo etereo dove prevalgono sentori di tabacco ma non mancano note speziate e di cuoio. In bocca è dolce con una spiccata acidità, persistente. Le sensazioni di affumicato si percepiscono anche nel bicchiere vuoto. Un vino interessante, curioso, di nicchia, da provare.
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