Le anfore: antico e innovativo strumento di vinificazione

Nel padiglione Enolitech fanno bella mostra gli stand di produttori di anfore.

Attualmente riscoperte da alcuni produttori che hanno ripreso questa tecnica con esiti positivi, producendo vini per un mercato di nicchia. I sistemi utilizzati sono diversi: anfore interrate, come in Georgia, o anfore complete con moderni accessori enologici. Tra i vari stand ha suscitato interesse quello dell’Antica Fornace Montecchio di San Donato in Poggio dove la proposta comprende anfore, costruite in varie misure e fogge, atte sia alla vinificazione che all’affinamento. Riccardo Nuti ha spiegato che il materiale usato per la costruzione è il galestro dell’Impruneta che ha caratteristiche particolari fisico-chimiche rispetto ad altre “terracotte”, come ad esempio una minore porosità, per cui, limitando i processi ossidativi i vini posso essere affinati più a lungo. Questo tipo di anfore si differenziano da quelle georgiane per la struttura chimica, lo spessore e la cottura prolungata. Commercializzate in varie forme sono funzionali per la vinificazione, ad esempio, quelle “a uovo” (sui 200 litri) hanno una funzione simile alla barrique senza, ovviamente apportare tannini e sentori di boisé.

unnamedPossono essere utilizzate sia per la vinificazione in rosso che in bianco e, secondo la loro esperienza, per le caratteristiche fisiche della terracotta non necessitato di interventi di termocondizionamento ma, se i clienti lo desiderano, si possono inserire piastre interne (scambiatore di calore). Essendo anche proprietari di una fattoria dove producono vino e olio, hanno vinificato con questo sistema un vino (100% sangiovese).  Dalla scheda tecnica si desume che “la fermentazione è stata spontanea in orci naturali di terracotta da 19 q.li, con macerazione di due settimane con follature giornaliere manuali. La maturazione è avvenuta in piccoli orci di terracotta da 170 – 180 litri per almeno 12 mesi con successivo affinamento in bottiglia per circa tre mesi”.
Alla degustazione il vino (Priscus IGT Rosso Toscana) si presenta con un bel colore rosso porpora, brillante, molto piacevole alla vista. Al naso, ancorché leggermente chiuso, è netto con note minerali, che nella scheda tecnica vengono definite “di creta”, floreale e con leggere note di frutti rossi. In bocca sono evidenti tannini importanti ma non aggressivi, tipici di un vino giovane, sapido e giustamente acido, con sentori retrolfattivi che ricordano quelli già sentiti per via ortonasale. Una nota particolare è la freschezza e la persistenza finale del vino. A detta del produttore il vino ha una “capacità di invecchiamento di oltre 15 anni”.

Ezio Alini

693 thoughts on “Le anfore: antico e innovativo strumento di vinificazione”

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