Da sempre le bollicine sono sinonimo di brindisi e di festività. Con consumi generali ancora concentrati sulla essenzialità, anche il fine anno 2016 ricalca l’andamento del 2015, con un solo +1% di volumi.
Le previsioni danno in calo soprattutto le etichette più note di Champagne e tutti gli altri marchi esteri, ad eccezione di pochi topleader e delle occasioni di prezzo dell’ultimo minuto. Nel range 15-25 euro/bott è possibile acquistare in Gdo sia uno Champagne che un Franciacorta, con 6-12 euro/bott si acquistano ottimi Prosecco Superiore e Prosecco doc spumante sempre nei grandi centri commerciali. L’horeca stenta ancora a crescere per “eccesso di rincaro” dice il panel storico dei 4800 di OVSE, il primo osservatorio economico dei vini effervescenti italiani nato nel 1991 con 25 anni di report storici grazie anche a un pool di 26 aziende di ricerca di mercato dei vini in Italia e nel mondo. Bene invece i consumi fuori-casa, al bar (30%) e l’acquisto diretto in cantina (9%). Pacchi-mix regalo in calo, soprattutto i più abbondanti; in leggera crescita le confezioni di sole bottiglie di vino e bollicine. Leader delle vendite di fine anno al consumatore finale è la Gdo con circa il 72% nel solo mese di dicembre.
I brindisi delle festività 2016-2017 valgono 510 mio/euro, a tanto ammonta la spesa degli italiani fra consumi domestici e fuori casa, compreso i marchi esteri di vini con le bollicine. “Novità assoluta 2016-2017, però, è la tendenza al consumo di vini dal sapore più secco e meno alcolico sia fra le bollicine metodo tradizionale che di metodo italiano”, sostiene l’Osservatorio economico dei vini effervescenti. Meglio il Prosecco Spumante extradry e brut, che il dry. Solo per il Cartizze Valdobbiadene Superiore prevale il dry, più morbido. Spopolano a tavola e nei cenoni il Franciacorta Saten e il Trendodoc brut. 2016 all’insegna del gusto secco: Franciacorta brut e Franciacorta Saten brut saranno su 2 tavole ogni 5; il Prosecco doc in 7 tavole su 10, il Valdobbiadene Conegliano Superiore docg su 3 tavole imbandite di Natale ogni 6. Calo ancora significativo per l’Asti docg e per tutti gli spumanti generici dolci, in totale non saranno neanche 11 mio/bott, quelle stappate a fine anno. Ricresce il mitico consumo dei “panettoni” a Natale in modo evidente, ma con le bollicine “brut”, cioè secche.
Volano invece molto bene i tappi dei topbrand italiani del metodo tradizionale: sfioreranno le 12 mio/bott nella sola notte di fine anno. Bene i prezzi al consumo soprattutto per il Prosecco Spumante docg e doc con valori medi in crescita fra 6-9 euro la bottiglia in Gdo, da 18 a 25 euro in horeca. Continua la crescita lenta delle bollicine regionali, sempre più richieste localmente soprattutto da ristoranti e bar e nel centro-sud Italia dove ci sono ancora spazi enormi fra i consumatori. Le richieste del consumo nazionale è la prova che c’è bisogno di una promozione mirata, più diretta alle motivazione di consumo interno. “I successi all’estero sono un merito e un vanto delle imprese italiane -sostiene Giampietro Comolli, presidente di Ovse- ma non bisogna dimenticare il mercato nazionale e intraprendere strategie di sviluppo, ne va del futuro enologico tricolore.
La strada del recupero del boom dei consumi di fine 2008 è lunga, anche se la bollicina resta sempre uno dei regali più apprezzati”. Nei giorni di festività si stapperanno in totale 58,5 mio/bott, di cui 2,9 estere con i picchi di consumo di 10,5 mio/bott in occasione del Natale, circa 34 l’ultima notte dell’anno, 3,5 mio/bott per la Befana. In totale il 40% dei consumi dell’intero anno. La stagionalità e le festività tornano a incidere in modo significativo. Solo Prosecco e Franciacorta mantengono un trend di crescita dei consumi e una destagionalizzazione consolidata. Valori stabili in cantina (+0,1/0,4% sul 2015), valori in crescita al consumo (+1,2/1,8% sul 2015). Il giro d’affari al consumo per queste feste sarà di 440 mio/euro, per le sole bollicine made in Italy.
Italian Bubble Wine Economic Observatory–O.V.S.E. – C.E.V.E.S.
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