La crescita del Prosecco e l’impatto sulla biodiversità del territorio. Se ne è parlato al convegno “Prosecco: un futuro di un miliardo di bottiglie o della ricerca della qualità?” organizzato da Davide Paolini, nell’ambito della manifestazione Gourmandia a Santa Lucia di Piave.
Punto di partenza la previsione di Gianluca Bisol che nel dicembre scorso aveva profetizzato una domanda di 1 miliardo di bottiglie nel 2030. Proiezione in parte corretta dallo stesso produttore secondo cui “con i prezzi correnti oggi difficilmente si potrà arrivare a questi quantitativi, ma non c’è motivo di non credere che la richiesta continuerà ad aumentare per un prodotto così piacevole ed invitante”. L’auspicio è quindi che si possa andare presto oltre i 3000 ettari di nuovi impianti autorizzati anche perché “se i viticoltori oggi hanno già venduto l’uva della prossima vendemmia, come possono essere incentivati a lavorare per la qualità?”
Alza le barricate Matilde Poggi, presidente della Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti, secondo cui “il successo per un vignaiolo non sta nel numero di bottiglie vendute, ma nel reddito che riesce a garantire per sostenere il proprio lavoro”. E pone l’attenzione su un rischio: “il raddoppio della superficie vitata a Glera in Veneto e Friuli porterebbe ad un monocoltura e metterebbe in crisi le altre denominazioni, già oggi fortemente provate dalla concorrenza”. Non molto diversa sarebbe però la prospettiva senza un ampliamento delle autorizzazioni. L’allarme arriva da Stefano Zanette, presidente del Consorzio Prosecco DOC. “Oggi, dopo il superamento del regime delle quote d’impianto, assistiamo ad un nuovo fenomeno: c’è chi acquista un’azienda al Sud per spiantare il vigneto e ripiantarlo al Nord con Glera. In questo modo si crea un concorrente interno al Prosecco e si impoveriscono denominazioni già in crisi”. Lavorare per elevare la percezione della qualità è la strada indicata da Innocente Nardi, Presidente del Consorzio Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, la cui denominazione “non ha più spazi fisici per crescere in quantità, ma è impegnata per divulgare la qualità e spiegare, anche ai nuovi mercati, la complessità del mondo Prosecco nella stratificazione tra DOC, DOCG e Rive”.
Sul territorio punta anche Armando Serena, Presidente del Consorzio Asolo Montello che vorrebbe “più arte e più cultura nella bottiglia per far comprendere le caratteristiche del territorio di Asolo, che oggi è il più raro e in qualche modo segreto nei confronti del grande pubblico”. Sullo sfondo un mercato che continua a chiedere Prosecco. Con il DOC che è passato dal 30 al 70% di Export dal 2009 ad oggi, generato per i due terzi da soli tre mercati: Stati Uniti, Gran Bretagna e Germania. “Oggi ci stiamo rivolgendo a nuovi mercati – spiega Zanette – e l’interesse è sempre molto grande. Il nostro intento è andare verso chi sa riconoscere il giusto valore al nostro prodotto”. Il successo va quindi governato. Su questo punto l’intesa è maggiore, anche se per il momento non è nemmeno all’ordine del giorno la possibilità di un consorzio di tutela unico. “Lancio una proposta” è la chiosa di Bisol: “Investiamo seriamente in ricerche di mercato e diamoci un appuntamento annuale nel quale discutiamo del futuro del Prosecco. Lo chiameremo: Prosecco Vision 2030.
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