Rhum, un mondo a parte

Degustazione memorabile presso la delegazione di Torino dedicata al Rhum Agricole J.M. con la partecipazione di Massimo Sagna, importatore del prodotto e di Dominique de la Guigneraye, uno dei titolari della Maison Rhum J.M di Macouba nel nord della Martinica, territorio d’oltremare della Francia nell’arcipelago delle Piccole Antille, sulle propaggini della Montagne Pelée. È l’unico Rhum della Martinica del quale i proprietari curano tutto il ciclo produttivo, dalla piantagione della canna da zucchero all’imbottigliamento.

La J.M. è anche una delle più antiche distillerie del paese fondata nel XVII secolo. Il rhum agricolo, per definirsi tale deve essere prodotto con l’utilizzo del solo succo fresco di canna, è l’espressione del terroir, i pendii del vulcano ne garantiscono un terreno ottimale, vengono coltivate ben quattro varietà delle 17 disponibili, inoltre il succo di canna da zucchero è molto delicato, quindi è necessario che i campi di canna da zucchero non siano troppo distanti dalle distillerie, dove vengono fatte fermentare le canne e poi se ne distilla il succo secondo la tradizione con un alambicco a colonna di tipo continuo. Inoltre la distilleria utilizza acqua di sorgente e per l’invecchiamento si utilizzano fusti di rovere.

IMG_0988Dal 1996 la produzione sull’isola di Martinica è salvaguardata da un preciso disciplinare, Appellation d’ Origine contrôlée, che oltre a sancire il territorio di produzione della canna da zucchero, la resa per ettaro, proibisce pratiche industriali come l’aggiunta di caramello e simularne l’invecchiamento.
Prima della degustazione del rhum, abbiamo avuto l’occasione di assaggiare il succo della canna, dolce, non stucchevole, dal profumo di erba appena tagliata.

Rhum J.M Blanc, 40° di colore bianco cristallo. Viene utilizzato per il Ti’punch, la bevanda nazionale (rum agricolo, zucchero di canna e lime). Un bouquet ampio, chiare note erbacee che ricordano proprio il succo della canna.
Rhum J.M Paille, 50° di colore ambrato, invecchiato in botti di quercia per un minimo di dodici mesi. I rhum invecchiati riportano le diciture tipiche del Cognac. Caratteristiche le note di spezie, cannella e accenni di frutta tropicale.
Rhum J.M Vieux V.S.O.P.(Very Special Old Pale) per disciplinare deve essere invecchiato per almeno 4 anni.
Rhum J.M Très Vieux X.O. per disciplinare minimo 6 anni di invecchiamento.

In accompagnamento a tutti i rhum una selezione di Napolitains Domori (Chuao cacao criollo 70% Venezuela; Apurimac Cacao Trinitario 70% Perù; Blend di cacao criollo e trinitario) scelti per dare la possibilità di gustare al meglio i distillati.

Piera Genta

376 thoughts on “Rhum, un mondo a parte”

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