Uno dei vitigni più interessanti ma al tempo stesso poco considerati in Puglia è il Moscatello Selvatico, ritenuto autoctono in provincia di Bari, dove per secoli ha nobilitato aromaticamente le produzioni dei vini bianchi secchi dei contadini concedendosi non occasionalmente anche a produzioni di affascinanti vini dolci naturali. Una produzione e una tradizione praticamente persa, con il solo CRSA di Locorotondo che continua a far sopravvivere questa tradizione proponendo micro vinificazioni che ogni anno non cessano di stupirmi. Una rapida scorsa tra le produzioni italiane di vini dolci naturali mi evidenzia che, paradossalmente, l’unica produzione accertata di vini doc ottenuti da questo vitigno si ottiene delle zone più nobili della produzione vitivinicola italiana, ben distante dalla provincia di Bari: il Moscadello di Montalcino Doc.
Gianni De Luca, dinamico enotecario di Novoli, parla dell’antica tradizione della Focara di Novoli, immenso falò che commemora Sant’Antonio Abate nelle seconda metà di gennaio: durante questa sagra è uso accompagnare la visita alla focara ad un assaggio del vino simbolo dell’evento che ormai non esiste più sostituito da vini che emulano i fasti di quel mitico Moscato di Novoli. Un moscato secco, molto accattivante, non filtrato.
Il moscato di Novoli, conosciuto localmente col termine dialettale muscateddhra (moscatella ) è un clone di moscatello selvatico, dal quale differisce però per alcuni caratteri ampelografici. E’ stato sicuramente introdotto dai coloni greci come nelle restanti regioni italiane meridionali, i quali portarono con sé i semi o i tralci per poterlo coltivare nelle colonie della Magna Grecia. Il perché si sia diffuso a Novoli più che altrove è da rintracciare in due cause: la particolarissima natura dei terreni di tipo alluvionale asciutto (caratteristica che Novoli condivide con Arnesano, Monteroni e parte di Carmiano) che con il giusto grado di umidità davano alla pianta quel tanto che le bastava per vivere e produrre senza darle troppo “succo” da produrre maggiori quantità ma con minori concentrazioni terpeniche.
Un altro aspetto che ha contribuito a rendere particolare il prodotto è stato l’innesto di questo moscato su porta-innesti Berlandieri x Riparia 157. Con l’avvento della fillossera nelle zona di Novoli si optò per questo portainnesto che aveva dimostrato buon adattamento alla natura dei terreni e ottima compatibilità d’innesto con i vitigni autoctoni di interesse commerciale quali il negro amaro, la malvasia nera di Lecce e il Primitivo. Il matrimonio tra 157 e moscatello è stato invece, per così dire, problematico. Il moscato attecchiva su questa barbatella ma diventava ancora più avaro nel fruttificare producendo al più 2-3 grappoli spargoli per pianta , ma come i contadini dovettero constatare, di eccezionali caratteristiche organolettiche.Negli ultimi decenni il vitigno è quasi scomparso.
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