Il Gruppo Tecnico Masi traccia la timeline di trent’anni di studi e ricerche svolte sulla sua indiscussa expertise, la tecnica dell’Appassimento, svelando gli studi e le applicazioni che hanno reso i vini della rinomata cantina veronese riconosciuti e apprezzati in tutto il mondo.
Il Gruppo Tecnico Masi ha tracciato un’interessante timeline dedicata alla sua indiscussa Expertise, l’Appassimento, frutto di quasi trent’anni di studi e ricerche che hanno coinvolto, oltre i tecnici della storica cantina in Valpolicella, un gran numero di valenti studiosi e ricercatori di celebri Università italiane e straniere, tra le quali quelle di Milano, Verona, Bordeaux, Udine ed Anger. Tre decadi alle quali non a caso è corrisposto in modo sorprendente lo sviluppo a livello internazionale del “fenomeno Amarone”.
L’Appassimento, aspetto caratterizzante del più famoso vino veronese al mondo, è una geniale pratica millenaria risalente al tempo dei Romani e brillantemente rielaborata in epoca più recente grazie alle intuizioni, alle sperimentazioni e allo straordinario know how attuale. Masi, che da sempre ha sostenuto quell’indirizzo produttivo che afferma non possano esistere un gran territorio vitivinicolo e grandi vini senza l’intervento appropriato dell’uomo, ha fatto della ricerca un “mantra”, dedicando gran parte delle energie del Gruppo Tecnico allo studio di questo metodo produttivo unico.
A dare il via alla sessione il commento di Raffaele Boscaini, coordinatore del Gruppo Tecnico Masi, che ha voluto soffermarsi sul concetto principale di questo seminario ben espresso dal suo titolo. “Una tecnica come l’appassimento si può decidere semplicemente di applicarla oppure si può decidere di adottarla, convivendoci per generazioni, capendone i segreti e sfruttandone tutte le potenzialità, questo significa farla propria e avere quindi la possibilità di svilupparne tutte le sfaccettature rendendosi protagonisti del suo futuro”. L’azienda Masi condotta dalla Famiglia Boscaini attraverso 7 generazioni ha, tramite il suo Gruppo Tecnico, optato per l’accezione più ampia “con il risultato che -continua Boscaini- se da una parte si tratta solo di concentrare tramite essicazione i succhi presenti in un acino per avere un vino più forte, dall’altra ci sono oltre trent’anni di esperienze, studi e ricerche che ci hanno portato al raggiungimento di una vera e propria expertise che ha letteralmente spostato i confini di questa tecnica che, partendo ovviamente dalla Valpolicella con l’Amarone, raggiunge ora altre regioni in Italia e nel mondo, anche con utilizzi totalmente nuovi che includono vini bianchi e spumanti”.
Durante il Seminario – che ha visto coinvolti oltre a Raffaele Boscaini, anche altri membri del Gruppo Tecnico: Mattia Lucchini (viticoltura), Vittorio Zandonà, Anita Boscaini (entrambi controllo qualità) e Andrea Dal Cin (referente enologia) – il coordinatore tecnico Lanfranco Paronetto ha dichiarato: “In tutti
questi anni abbiamo indagato a fondo la tecnica dell’Appassimento in tutti i suoi aspetti: sono state studiate le uve autoctone, la zonazione della Valpolicella, si sono approfondite le conoscenze sui lieviti e la fermentazione, l’influenza del microclima, il ruolo del legno nella maturazione del vino, fino ai fattori umani che ne influenzano la produzione e alla genetica, con la definizione del DNA dell’uva Corvina e lo studio dei geni in fase di Appassimento, nulla è stato tralasciato.”
E’ stato inoltre sottolineato l’impegno divulgativo del Gruppo Tecnico Masi in materia di ricerca; oltre ad essere applicate nel ciclo produttivo dei cinque prestigiosi Amaroni della gamma di Masi e in tutti i suoi vini da doppia fermentazione, come lo storico Campofiorin, le sperimentazioni sono state condivise durante gli appuntamenti annuali del Seminario Tecnico a Vinitaly, arrivando a rappresentare un immancabile punto di riferimento per tutto il settore. Per rendere più concreto questo lungo lavoro di ricerca, Masi ha voluto pubblicare i suoi studi negli “Atti di XXV anni di Seminari Masi a Vinitaly” e una collana di tre libri editi dalla Fondazione Masi dedicati alle uve, alle tecniche e ai terroir delle Venezie.
A conclusione Raffaele Boscaini ha ricordato al numeroso pubblico specializzato che ha affollato la sala del Seminario: “La ricerca conferma ciò che conosciamo e apre nuovi orizzonti e possibilità per rendere sempre attuale questa straordinaria tecnica mantenendone inalterato il fascino. Una scia ininterrotta di esperienze ci hanno fornito centinaia di soluzioni, accorgimenti e sensibilità applicate quotidianamente dal Gruppo Tecnico Masi e che, con grande dedizione e senso di riconoscenza, abbiamo condiviso con appassionati e tecnici del mestiere.”
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