Quando si parla di acquavite di mele, il pensiero e il mio desiderio corrono immediatamente al Calvados, dell’omonimo dipartimento della Bassa Normandia o da mitiche aree della Bretagna (Breizh).
Da quando ho degustato, con passione ed entusiasmo, l’Acquavite Licenza N.1, dell’az.agr. Ricci Curbastro, noti vignaioli di Franciacorta, l’acquavite di mele nel ricordo delle mie sensazioni sensoriali è diventato questo incredibile distillato.
Le origini di un’acquavite di mele nella terra del Franciacorta, diventa curiosa, raccontata da Riccardo Ricci Curbastro, che ricorda che suo padre Gualberto, nel 2003 piantò 400 piante di mele, per creare un’acquavite per sé stesso. I meli furono ordinati i migliori vivaisti del nord ovest della Francia e quindi destinati sulle colline romagnole di Brisighella dove proprio in quegli anni era nata la nuova azienda agricola Rontana, a 400 metri di quota tra boschi e orizzonti lontani che guardano l’Adriatico e le Alpi.
Certo produrre un distillato nella cantine di Capriolo (sede dell’az. Ricci Curbastro) in Franciacorta non era cosa semplice, furono necessari infiniti permessi per produrre il sidro e poi distillarlo. Il raggiungimento della “licenza”, che porta il numero 1, ha ispirato il marchio dell’ acquavite “Licenza n.1”, che ricorda il frutto del desiderio di fare qualcosa di diverso e forse per la prima volta in Italia.
L’attrezzatura è un misto di oggetti scovati nei magazzini del Museo Agricolo e del Vino opportunamente riadattati, di vasche di acciaio termocondizionate e di presse, capaci di spremiture soffici, presenti nella moderna cantina. Per la distillazione sono state scelte le Distillerie Peroni, con le quali Ricci Curbastro collabora.
Il primo raccolto nel 2007, poi ancora attesa per l’Acquavite messa a maturare in barrique di rovere francese. Nel contempo papà Gualberto Ricci Curbastro, quasi alla vigilia della “fioritura”, è scomparso, lasciando un prezioso distillato che lo ricorda già nella sua etichetta frutto di alcuni schizzi di Federico Canobbio Codelli, fatti a Brisighella mentre Gualberto coltivava con il trattore il terreno sotto i suoi amati meli.
Per un grande distillato è strategica la frutta alla base della sua creazione, in questo caso vengono utilizzate quattro varietà di mele, la Douce Moën o Penn ar Bed (vreton) proveniente dal sud del Finistère, Marie Menard o Aodoù an Arvor (vreton), proveniente dalla Côtes-d’Armor, una mela amara che produce un sidro ricco in tannino e colorato; Petit Jaune, proveniente dalla Loira Atlantica, mela dal succo acido, profumato, di buona
intensità adatto a rinforzare l’acidità del sidro; infine St. Martin, mela proveniente dalla Normandia, e caratterizzata da un succo dolce amaro.
L’acquavite di mele riposa per oltre cinque anni in barrique di rovere francesi alla gradazione di distillazione, circa 70°, al termine della maturazione viene diluita con acqua per portarla a 43°, filtrata ed imbottigliata.
Servita in ballon, come quelli per i grandi vini rossi, il colore è giallo ambrato non troppo intenso, effluvi fragranti e persistenti, profilo aromatico deciso e ricco di sfumature. Al palato è morbida, vellutata e aromica, dal sapore maturo di mele. Servire a temperatura
Ambiente. Consigli per una degustazione alternativa, l’Acquavite di mele viene bevuta come aperitivo con ghiaccio o in long drink ad esempio con la Schweppes o il Ginger Ale (3/10 di acquavite di mele e 7/10 di Schweppes o Ginger Ale).
Da abbinare alle crepes dolci, con gelato alla vaniglia, mele e acquavite flambè.
www.riccicurbastro.it
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