Siamo a Treiso, provincia di Cuneo, ci troviamo nella regione storica collinare delle Langhe. Siamo nel cuore della zona di produzione di una delle prime DOCG italiane (1981), il Barbaresco. Ne fanno parte i comuni di Treiso, Neive e Barbaresco.
Con passione, impegno e dinamicità la famiglia Pelissero, giunta alla sua terza generazione, coltiva Nebbiolo, Barbera e Dolcetto su 40 ettari di proprietà con una resa di circa 250.000 bottiglie all’anno. Il 65% della produzione viene esportato.
E’ una cantina moderna quella della famiglia Pelissero, curata con personalità e gusto dai titolari, capace di stupire il visitatore con le 3.000 barrique presenti in cantina oltre ad una parete che richiama nello stile la forma delle botti in legno. Tra le 250.000 bottiglie prodotte, ci sorprendono quelle di grande formato, ben 18 litri, desiderate dal titolare, incalzato da uno spirito romantico.
Con Francesca, collaboratrice della famiglia Pelissero, iniziamo la degustazione con la Barbera D’Alba DOC Tulin 2012, prodotta attravverso un’accurata selezione in vigneto. Colore rosso rubino carico, al naso presenta sentori di frutta rossa, lamponi e mirtillo.
In bocca è sapida, calda e fresca con una giusta persistenza.
Passiamo al Langhe DOC Rosso Long Now 2011, un vino innovativo, esprime il concetto di lungo presente. Long Now è il nome che alcuni scienziati californiani hanno dato all’orologio raffigurato in etichetta. Prodotto al 50% con uve Barbera e Nebbiolo, si presenta di un bel colore rosso rubino violaceo con splendidi sentori di frutta rossa che esplodono dal bicchiere. In bocca è avvolgente, vellutato, equilibrato e molto persistente. Un vino che come suggerisce il nome stesso è vocato all’affinamento.
Prima di passare alla batteria dei Barbareschi degustiamo l’ottimo Langhe DOC Nebbiolo 2013. E’ prodotto con le uve ritenute non soddisfacenti alla produzione del barbaresco. Affinato in parte in barrique, trascorre 8-9 mesi in botte grande.
E’ un vino giovane, limpido e brillante. Caratterizzato al naso da profumi di fragola e lampone, in bocca ha un buon tannino tipico del vitigno di provenienza.
Proseguiamo la nostra degustazione con il Barbaresco DOCG Nubiola 2010, prodotto con uve di sei piccoli appezzamenti dislocati nei comuni di Treiso, Neive e Barbaresco. È il barbaresco di base, caratterizzato da un color rosso rubino vivace con sentori al naso che ci ricordano i frutti rossi e le spezie. In bocca è caldo, morbido, con una leggera tannicità ed una buona persistenza.
Di carattere più austero è il Barbaresco DOCG Tulin 2010, nome che ricorda un recipiente di latta concavao usato nelle chiese per raccogliere la cera. Prodotto con una macerazione di 15 giorni, segue un affinamento di 18/20 mesi. In seguito assemblato per circa il 50% in botti di rovere da 50 HL con la restante parte affinata invece in barrique. Di colore rosso rubino con profondi profumi di frutta rossa e di vaniglia. Al palato è avvolgente, caldo, morbido, giustamente tannico e molto persistente.
Il Barbaresco DOCG Vanotu Riserva 2010 (dal dialetto piemontese Vanotu è il diminutivo di Giovanni, al tempo proprietario del vigneto prima del nipote Giorgio) è affinato per 20/22 mesi in barrique e 9 mesi in bottiglia per ottenere un vino incredibilmente complesso e strutturato con un’ottima persistenza olfattiva e gustativa. Ha davanti a sè una lunga vita.
Mariasole Ghirardelli- foto di Giovanni Boscherino
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