Il Primitivo

Guido Montaldo

Vitigno dall’origine incerta, si è scoperto esistere in diverse aree del mondo con la stessa identità genetica ma con nomi differenti: Primitivo in Puglia, Zinfandel in California e Crljenak Kastelanskj in area dalmata.

Il Primitivo viene battezzato con tal nome nella zona di Gioia del Colle, a sud di Bari, a fine XVIII sec. dal sacerdote Primicerio don Filippo Francesco Indellicati che selezionò le piante tra le diverse varietà che crescevano nel territorio per creare la prima vigna di “Primaticcio”. Negli anni a seguire si è diffusa la coltivazione nelle aree limitrofe (Daunia, nord tarantino, Materano) per raggiungere Manduria e dintorni sono nel 1881 mentre ancora dopo, nel 1920, il primitivo giunse nelle terra del Massico in provincia di Caserta.

Zinfandel-SignIl grappolo è medio, allungato, di forma conico-cilindrica, semplice ma anche alato o doppio, mediamente compatto, con acino medio sferoidale, con buccia pruinosa, di medio spessore di colore blu. Il nome testimonia la fenologia del vitigno che è precoce sia per la germogliatura e la fioritura che per invaiatura e maturazione. Predilige terreni di medio impasto, argilloso-calcarei, profondi e nei diversi territori si dimostra molto sensibile alle differenze dei terreni. La produzione è di elevata qualità, ma quantitativamente incostante. Assicura i migliori risultati enologici con forme di allevamento a media e bassa espansione, con potatura ricca e corta (come nel caso dell’alberello pugliese a 4-5 speroni). Caratteristica è la presenza di femminelle fertili, che danno una seconda produzione più tardiva, i racemi, (pari al 20%-30% di quella principale).

782Il Primitivo è un vitigno di grande qualità che esprime nei suoi vini la forza di un frutto straordinario. Pochissimi vini sanno garantire una pienezza, un calore ed una rotondità naturale tale, sorretti da una struttura acido/tannica di grande finezza. Una delle caratteristiche evidenti del vino ottenuto è proprio la finezza dei tannini: eleganti e delicati, derivanti da bucce non spesse e da vinaccioli sempre ben lignificati, consentono una bevibilità quasi immediata, senza dover attendere lunghi tempi per la loro polimerizzazione. Ed infatti quando il primitivo si affina in legno è sempre difficile individuare la giusta quantità di tempo affinché gli esiti del contenitore non prevarichino il frutto.

Violaceo ed intensissimo da giovane, vira al rubino/granato e nell’invecchiamento più prolungato all’aranciato. A livello olfattivo e di bocca propone un frutto deciso, amarena, gelso, mora, lampone maturi e a volte in confettura, grazie alla naturale tendenza di quest’uva alla surmaturazione che rende possibili eccellenti vini dolci naturali. In evoluzione più avanzata il colore più tenue ed aranciato si associa a sentori di ciliegia sotto spirito molto affascinanti specie nelle tipologie con residuo zuccherino.

 

 

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